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March 2008 - Cheeses from the Emerald Isle



Ireland, with its clean rains, lush grasses, and a surprisingly temperate climate, holds the perfect mix for great dairy pastures, and cows can graze freely almost all year round. Not surprisingly, this produces some world class cheese, in a great variety of types and styles, with quality being the common link. From larger dairies like Kerrigold, makers of the popular Dubliner cheddar, to farmhouse cheese makers like the husband and wife team of Jane and Louis Grubb, makers of Cashel Blue, Ireland proves to be a land of more than just great whiskey, great poets, and leprechauns.

Durrus Cheese from County Cork (from the Valley Of Coomleen on the Sheep’s Head Peninsula, to be exact) was created by Jeffa Gill in the late 70’s. Jeffa was part of Ireland’s “new traditionalist” cheese makers, who looked back on the ancient ways of making cheese and adapted those traditions to the modem world. Born in a pan on her kitchen stove, this washed rind cheese with a coral color and wonderfully smelly odor has a smooth texture and earthy taste. Try it with a syrah or Gewürztraminer.

Just to the northeast of Co. Cork lies Co. Tipperary, where you’ll find Cashel Blue. A semi soft blue veined cheese developed in 1984 by Jane and Louis Grubb on their farm in Ireland’s “Golden Vale” pasture lands, this handmade cheese starts off crumbly and tangy, then matures to a creamer texture with a stronger bite. Think of it as an Irish gorgonzola, but with a sweeter punch of blue. Aged for three to five months, this award-wining cheese would pair well with a sauternes or a sparkling wine.

Travel west from Tipperary to County Limerick to find the farm of Marion Cahill. In the early 80s, inspired from old Limerick recipes (and perhaps old drinking songs as well) Marion created the well-known Cahill Porter Cheese. This aged cheddar is infused with a dark porter (think Guinness) which creates its arresting mosaic pattern, and even more unique flavor. A sharp cheddar with a creamy malt aftertaste, try it on a slice of traditional Irish wheaten bread washed down a dark beer (think Guinness again!).

Thanks for reading Octavio Saez De Ibarra, cheese manager


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