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New Cheeses for February 2009



My Cheesy Valentine.

When it comes time for romance, let cheese lead the way. New cheeses and some returning favorites add that special something extra to a romantic dinner, even if it’s one you share as “just friends.”

Rhinette from Germany is a smooth creamy semi soft cow’s milk cheese whose rind is brushed with apple cider as it is matured. Handmade in the Algatu Mountains, the apples used to make the cider include a renette variety whose the orchards are near the famous Rhine River. With its sweet aroma and mild delicate flavor, Rhinette is a perfect introduction into the wonderful world of washed rind cheeses.

Boschetto al tartufo bianchetto from Italy is a cow and sheep cheese, blended with white truffles. Luxuriously smooth, with a great explosion of truffle, this cheese is creamy enough to melt in risotto or spread on pizza, and it is also lovely as a table cheese, paired with pinot or lightly oaked chardonnay.

Cacio di bosco al tartufo is another truffle cheese from Italy, but this one is a pure pecorino (sheep’s milk) that is firm enough to grate. Whether shredded over pasta, mixed into fresh vegetables or sliced thin to be eaten on its own, this complex, nutty cheese is a delightful way to embrace the intoxicating, oily taste of truffle. Made by the agricultural coop Il Forteto, established in 1977. Their converted old farm is located in Mellower, just out side of Florence.

Brillo formaggio di vino is another Italian cheese currently on the top of my great-tasting list. Also made by the Il Forteto coop, this is another pecorino, but of the “drunken” variety. Matured in terra cotta pitchers of red wine, this soft cheese with a red-tinged crust has a musky aroma, delicate taste, and is infused with the heady perfume of red wine. It is impressive on a cheese tray or a great addition to a salad. Leave it to the Italians to find a way to blend wine and cheese, and they do it beautifully, with the cheese and wine flavors coming together like an aria by Verdi.

So this Valentine’s Day, who needs to give flowers? Give cheese. Eat cheese. Suddenly all those sappy poems about love will make perfect sense.

Thanks for reading.
Octavio Saez de Ibarra, The Cheese Department.



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